I was going to write about “fun on the funicular”, which is a curiously old-fashioned method of mounting mountains that we employed twice in both Kiev and Odessa. The one in the capital employs four-stepped carriages, and costs 50 grivna (10 cents), while the one in Odessa is tiny and free. But visiting the orphanages yesterday and the day before in the suburbs south of Odessa, and the children’s AIDS ward today in the wilderness just north of Kiev, were far more interesting.
On Wednesday afternoon, we toured an orphanage for developmentally disabled kids with a young Ukrainian television news producer named Lena, a 27-year-old Christian woman whose enormous energy belies her petite stature. After we met her in front of an Irish pub in the city center, we flagged down a private car and bargained for the 30-minute ride—it cost 25 grivna ($5). Lena lives in the northeastern part of the city and can rarely afford a taxi, so the trip for her takes 1 hour on good days and 1.5 when the traffic is heavy. On the way, she told Paul and Kimberly and me about the management of the orphanage. There are city orphanages and region orphanages, and the city ones tend to be better funded—we were going to a regional orphanage. In both cases, the municipal and regional governments provide money for food and staff salaries, but other needs have to be covered by private sponsors (which Lena is highly skilled in finding, but she is one person, not an army). There are different orphanages dedicated to the care of children for different disabilities (such as cerebral palsy, vision-impairment and deafness)—many of these children are not actual orphans, but “social orphans”—their parents simply determine that they cannot care for them, and leave them to be wards of the state. “Mainstreaming” of people with physical or mental disabilities is simply not practiced here. The cut-off age for young people to remain in orphanages is 18—that is, the day before their eighteenth birthday is the last day they can stay in the “internat” or institution. Handicapped kids, though, frequently stay longer, because they need to achieve a roughly 9th-grade education level prior to their departure. Many of such children are at only 5th or 6th grade level by age 17. Eighteen-year-olds who are too badly off to live on their own go into “ugly” (Lena's word) nursing homes, where most of the patients are over fifty, and the care is little more than rudimentary.
Orphanage #4 was in a gentrifying neighborhood a few hundred yards from the Black Sea shore. Although the place has been there for 100 years in one form or another, people in the government have recently been attempting to dispossess the institution, since the land has increased exponentially in value, and nouveau riche businessmen, foreigners or Mafiosi would pay top dollar to subdivide what are already small plots on either side of a residential road into homesites.
The assistant director, a stocky middleclass woman with bleached-blond hair, was delighted to see Lena, as were a motley assortment of goofy adolescent inmates who embraced her enthusiastically. Our tour was not comprehensive: the model apartment they have set up in one building (in order to teach the children what an ordinary house looks like) was locked, and the key unavailable, as was the boys’ trade center (they are taught woodworking) but the lady was able to take us into the girls’ training center, where a workshop of five sewing machines and one serger was available for examination. Two of the machines were fairly new, but a couple were older than my 1930s Singer—they were foot-pedal driven, not electric, the black enamel on them so chipped that the name of the maker was illegible. The serger was similarly ancient, though synthetic power-driven. The idea behind teaching the girls to sew is to give them a trade which they can use to support themselves—they spend some 27 hours a week in the sewing room. But no one uses treadle machines anymore, even in Ukraine—they haven’t for fifty, if not seventy, years. But an electric machine goes frighteningly fast for some of the children, and they simply can’t be acclimated to it.
Orphanage #4 is the first such institution in Ukraine to be certified and outfitted with equipment and training to teach autistic children. The director and several teachers proudly showed us the couple of rooms where the handful of such students they have this year (the number is expected to double next year) are instructed.
The children were doing their homework in the classrooms—they have two hours of homework time each evening, and we had come at the beginning of this period. The little classes rose to their feet respectfully when we opening the doors and the teachers acknowledged us. Garland-draped portraits of Shevchenko, the nineteenth-century literary giant who is considered the national poet of Ukraine, hung in the front of each classroom, over the blackboard, in the place where Lenin’s picture used to reside in the old days. Lena told us later that when she started coming to the orphanage four years ago, there was still a statue of Lenin in front of the flagpole in the central square, but it disappeared shortly thereafter.
Lena is a dynamo—she builds relationships with the orphanages and their administrators, and the administrators (most of whom obviously love their work and care about their students) tell her what their most pressing needs are [sometimes it is an emergency essential--the boiler at Orphanage #4 broke last winter, and the entire place was without heat from February through March--it was so cold, there was frost indoors--imagine children trying to eat, sleep and study in the depths of the Ukrainian winter, which even on the Black Sea isn't known for mildness]. She is also frequently approached by people who want to help the orphans, and so acts as a liaison between them and the institutions. Sometimes she (who confesses to having been quite shy in the recent past) surprises herself by boldly approaching potential sponsors who have never exhibited an inclination to assist charities, and they are remarkably receptive. Such it was that a Russian Yiddish men’s choral group, of all things, which had never donated anything anyone could remember in its over a half-century of existence, ended up supplying over 70 new beds to Orphanage #4.
How bad the old beds were we got to see yesterday at Orphanage #7, where 115 cerebral palsy-affected children live. Nineteen of these do not have living parents. Perhaps thirty children with living parents are visited by them regularly. The rest may visit every few years—so said the director of the orphanage, a young, broad-shouldered man who has accomplished amazing changes in the year he has been at his post, Lena told us. He does not merely have vague ideas of how he’d like to improve this or that aspect of the campus, but a definite sense of what must be done and how it can be accomplished. He showed us the dormitories first—these are in an old Romanian horse stable, where up to 22 children sleep in a single room. The beds look to date from the imperial age, too. I’ve seen the same beds in pictures of wards from the 1917-19 influenza epidemic—plain iron pipe bedsteads with thin mattresses resting on hammocks of metal mesh. Not the sort of contraptions anyone should sleep on, much less children with physical degenerative disorders. The director, with Lena’s help, had found funding for some of the toilets to be refurbished. The old ones were ghastly. And did I mention that Orphanage #7 does not own a washing machine? All laundry has to be done by hand. Sheets, clothes, everything, winter and summer.
This afternoon, a physician’s wife from one of the churches in Kiev took us to a children’s hospital where we visited the orphan AIDS ward, which is one of the nicest areas of the treatment facility (since foreigners from all walks of life do give money to HIV/AIDS care). There, I spent over an hour holding a tiny, tiny little two-month-old boy who is currently being tested for HIV. I asked how much he weighed, and got an exact answer thanks to a nearby scale—exactly 4,5 kilos (less than 10 lbs). His (probably drug-addict) mother abandoned him when he was just a few weeks old. Such a sweet baby, with perfect miniature hands, long eyelashes, and fuzzy dark down on his warm head. There was another (very round) little fellow in the room who is two years old who found my sunglasses just as entertaining as my niece did the first time she saw them. We got some good pictures. This boy, a great mimic, was very silly, and happy, since a young Catholic nun is now staying with him most of every day--she is so kind and cheerful, patient with her wee charges. Previously, he and his tiny roommate (and the assortment of other infant/toddler HIV/AIDS patients who are usually in residence in that same small room) were left by themselves, in their cribs, alone. The infant still doesn't cry at all, because he knows already that no one will come. Poor little mite. He was so cuddly. Kimberly was almost in tears leaving them, and I decompensated almost immediately after we got home tonight. The minute I get a real, regular job, I'm going to start the adoption process. I really want to have children, and these little people are so vulnerable. And the HIV/AIDS babies are the “lucky” ones—they are at least getting attention from Sister Deborah—the other ones are simply abandoned to sit in their solitary cribs at the regular orphanages, where no one visits. And in those are worse conditions than I saw in the AIDS ward bathroom (which was relatively new, with only standing sludge in the large open floor drain, and a toilet that wouldn’t flush properly, and one roach crawling up the wall).
I hope I never forget what it was like in each of the "internats." What it is like. What it will be like until adults act with ongoing unselfishness. Maybe I can be a part of that turnaround.